We highly recommend these tips to public safety professionals, law enforcement officers, survivalists, military personnel, and adventurers.
Why is Proper Care Important For Tactical Survival Gear?
Whether worn for work, training, or off-duty casual activities, cleaning your tactical survival gear should be a daily practice. When you keep your gear in good shape, it will remain effective and capable of delivering the performance you require when you need it the most.
Perhaps you've heard the phrase, "Take care of your gear, and it will take care of you." Whatever context you heard it in, it's true.
Take a look inside the ordinary operator's armory, for example, and contemplate a common item of gear found there: waterproof tactical clothes. When you're stranded in a monsoon rainstorm for many hours and forced to stay motionless the entire time, having well-cared-for rain apparel can make all the difference.
The DWR coating is one of the garment's most notable qualities. Instead of allowing rain to seep in, this serves to repel it. It's not a good thing if your rain gear soaks up water because it will make the garment heavier and lose some or all of its breathability.
The point is that by caring for your rain gear properly, you may extend the life of its DWR coating—another case in point. Dirt and filth from your body's oils and fats, as well as salt crystals in your sweat, can become caught within the waterproof barrier. In the worst-case situation, such contaminants could potentially perforate the membrane (as they rub against the membrane's layers as you move).
Washing your rain gear regularly eliminates these particles from the membrane, reducing harm.
General Care Tips For Tactical Assault Gear
When it comes to tactical assault gear, the best advise is to follow the care guidelines provided by the manufacturer.
These instructions are always included with every piece of Evatac clothing you buy. Simply look for the care tag on the garment to get the instructions.
Maintenance tags are small in size, but they are quite important for proper care because they are the key to the longevity of the items you own.
So, aside from the usual washing recommendations on the care tag, what else should you know? Isn't it sufficient to follow the directions to the letter? Not totally, at least. There are a few broad "rules of thumb" you should be aware of as well. Consider the following scenario:
Don’t Overload Your Washing Machine With Military Tactical Gear
Sure, it's simple sense, but it's worth mentioning in a comprehensive guide to military tactical gear cleaning.
And the reason you shouldn't overload your washing machine is that it cleans your clothes better when it isn't overcrowded. Your clothes will also come out with fewer wrinkles if you use the optimum laundering cycle. As an added bonus, your washing machine will appreciate you for being more kind with it.
We recommend that you fill your washing machine to 70% capacity. To protect the color qualities of each, we also recommend washing light and dark colored garments in different loads.
Remove all Tactical Gear From The Garments Before Washing
Check the pockets and molle pouches of the tactical gear before you wash anything. This is especially critical when washing rain gear: sharp things (such keys, knives, pins, and other pointy gear) can penetrate your rainwear's triple-layer waterproof membrane and irreversibly destroy its waterproof performance as the washing machine goes through its agitation and spin cycles.
Leaving paper or tissues in your pockets might also cause trouble. Those things can shred and become trapped between the fabric while being washed. Breathability is reduced little but noticeably as a result of this. Cleaning up the mess left behind by shredded paper and tissues from the washing machine is also a pain.
Avoid Setting The Dryer For Highest RPMs
True, high-RPM (revolutions per minute) drying removes post-wash moisture more quickly and completely than lesser settings. However, high-RPM drying wrinkles your clothing.
Another approach to avoid wrinkles is to avoid using the dryer. Instead, after washing, hang the damp garment on a hanger overnight to dry. Then, when you go to put it on in the morning, there are no wrinkles.
How to Wash Tactical Pants And Combat Pants
Here's a quick rundown of what you should do before cleaning your tactical or battle pants:
All pocket objects and weapon accessories (tissues, knives, etc.) and Velcro coverings should be removed (patches, etc.).
- Knee protectors should be removed (these should be washed only by hand).
- Velcro straps should be attached and secured (i.e., side pocket strap).
- Zippers, buttons, Velcro, and other closures should all be closed (this helps prevent rough mechanism parts from damaging the fabric).
- Invert the pants inside out.
- Choose mild-strength laundry detergent
- Wash in cold water
- Close the solid pad knee pocket. Otherwise, hard Velcro will be exposed and may act as an abrasive during washing.
- Allow to air dry on a hanger overnight (best practice).
How to Wash Tactical Jackets
Our tactical and combat jackets require no special care. In this situation, they may be cleaned with extra elements (Hood/Harness, air/PAC inserts) (although we recommend removing the air/PAC inserts if feasible to reduce drying time).
While the Hood and Harness can be washed together with the coats, we recommend cleaning them separately. If you choose to wash the Hood/Harness separately, do it in a wash bag to guarantee full cleaning.
Here's a rundown of what you should do before washing these jackets:
- All pocket objects (tissues, knives, etc.) and Velcro coverings should be removed (patches, etc.).
- Elbow pads should be removed (these should be washed only by hand).
- Zippers, buttons, Velcro, and other closures should all be closed (this helps prevent rough mechanism parts from damaging the fabric).
- Invert the jacket and turn it inside out.
How to Wash Boonies and Caps
There's no need to worry about potential harm to the fabric or other clothing while washing because the Velcro bits on these hats are the soft part of the hook-and-loop material.
Washing Boonie hats and caps is a simple process that you'll find quite simple to do. However, before you wash them, make sure you do the following:
First, remove all paperwork and other stuff from the interior.
How to Remove Stains From Tactical Gear
Your gear has most likely become stained over time. You're probably also wondering what to do about such stains, particularly the difficult-to-remove ones.
There is no need to be concerned. However, the next time you come across a difficult stain, go to this list for advice on how to get rid of it quickly.
Fresh bloodstains should always be washed with cold water. Never use hot water (that causes blood to clot, making it harder to remove).
- Removing blood stains with salt
Salt is one of the most effective natural blood stain removers. Soak the clothing in cold water containing salt before placing it in the washing machine. This is where your cooking salt comes in handy.
Wetting the affected area with cold water and then coating it with salt will remove old, dried blood. Keep your clothing on and jump into a bathtub full of cold water with a substantial amount of salt added as soon as possible after your garments come into touch with blood. Your clothes will be coated in salt when you get out of the tub, but don't worry: the detergent in the washing machine will readily remove both the blood and the salt. You'll be astounded by the high quality of the result.
Apply detergent directly to the spot, let it stay for a few minutes (to allow the detergent's stain-removing capability to work), and then rinse with cold water. After that, wash the clothes regularly.
- Vinegar with alcohol
Immersing your gear in a solution of water and vinegar is another approach to remove blood stains. Allow the garment to soak overnight before washing it in the morning.
- Baking Soda
Apply baking soda to the fresh stain directly, wait a few minutes, then wash the clothing in your washing machine. Next, mix baking soda with your laundry detergent when washing whites. When the two are combined, clothing becomes whiter and brighter.
Allow wet mud to dry completely before whisking away as many huge bits as possible using a brush. Place the clothing in a plastic bag for five to six hours after rubbing clear detergent over the remaining soiled area. Remove the contents of the bag and place them in your washing machine to wash.
Wash the stain with hot water right away. If the stain lingers after washing, use clear detergent or soak the discoloration in warm milk. If it doesn't work, soak a cloth in glycerine and rub it into the stain thoroughly; let it sit for 10 hours before washing the clothing in the washing machine.
Apply a clear detergent to the afflicted area of your gear and let it work its magic for five to six hours. Alternatively, you can soak the clothes in a 50/50 solution of water and glycerine. If the stain remains visible after one wash cycle, combine one large tablespoon of ammonium with one liter of water and rub the resulting solution into the stain. Run the clothing through the washing machine once more. You can substitute undiluted benzine for the 25-percent ammonium combination.
Place the dirty garment in a plastic bag for five to six hours after gently rubbing the spot with clear detergent. Then wash it in the machine.
Don't worry if you're a tea connoisseur who can't manage to keep it from spilling on your gear. Tea stains are easy to get rid of. To begin, soak the garments in half-skimmed milk. Allow the milk to sit for a few minutes until it begins to change color. Then, immediately over the location, apply a clear detergent and tightly cover the clothing in a plastic bag for five to six hours. Next, in a washing machine, wash the garment. Another approach is to apply glycerine to the stain immediately and leave it for 15 minutes. Machine-wash the clothing after that time.
Before placing the item in the washing machine, dissolve the stain with soap, clear detergent, or glycerine. If an oily stain appears after washing, soak the affected area with sparkling water or club soda and rewash. You can alternatively soak the stain in half-skimmed milk for around 15 minutes (while you're waiting, have some cookies to go with the milk). After that, gently rub the stain with a cloth until it vanishes. Rewash.
To remove the discoloration, use glycerine or milk. Use both for the best results: rub the stain with glycerine first, then soak it in milk overnight. In the morning, wash the item in the washing machine.
Acetone or non-oil-based nail polish removers can be used to remove acetone-based glues (ask your buddy if he has some; you never know).
Before tossing the garment into the washing machine, rub the stain with butter and allow it to absorb the oil. Another alternative is to dab some benzine on the stain. And rub it with a paper towel from both sides of the fabric.
Apply a solution of one part white vinegar to four parts water to the area to be rubbed. Rinse well with plain water. Alternatively, wet the stain with water before sprinkling it with baking soda. Allow to air-dry overnight before washing.
Apply a clear detergent on the stain, place the garment in a plastic bag, lock it, and keep it there overnight. If the stain persists by morning, apply sparkling water or club soda to the afflicted area. After that, wash in a washing machine.
The clothing should be washed in water that is at least 60 degrees Celsius.
Soak the gear in cold water for a few minutes before rubbing it with soap or clear detergent. If oily stains persist, use sparkling water or club soda to remove them. Last but not least, wash the clothes in a washing machine.
You'll be relieved to learn that beer stains can be readily removed with regular washing. We discovered this by chance after a series of spills provided ample possibilities for testing.
Allow the equipment to soak in a solution of 2 tablespoons white vinegar and 1-gallon milk (alternatively, use a mixture of lemon juice and water). After that, rub the equipment with salt and hang it to dry in the sun. Finally, wash the gear in a machine.
Large bits can be vacuumed out or gathered using sticky tape. After that, soak the clothes in a clear detergent solution. Next, place the clothing in a plastic bag once it has been saturated with detergent. Allow the clothing to stay in the bag for five to six hours after sealing it.
Rub the gear with acetone or a mixture of cleaning alcohol and turpentine on any absorbent surface. With a paper towel, quickly dry the stain. Remove the garment from the surface and throw it in the washer.
Soak the clothing in a standard enzyme-containing laundry detergent (any type). Extra detergent should be applied directly to the stain. Allow at least two hours to sit before washing in a washing machine.
Before laundry, apply glycerine directly to the stain and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Another method for pre-washing is to use toothpaste on a brush and gently touch the stain until it dissolves.
In a stovetop pot, place the clothing. Fill the pot halfway with milk and the other half with water—Cook the garment at a low temperature on the stove. Remove the clothing from the saucepan and place it in the washing machine. Please keep your fingers crossed while the machine goes through its cycles.
Place the equipment in a plastic bag. Place the bag in the freezer for at least two hours or until the gum has hardened. Remove the bag from the freezer and scrape the chewing gum off the clothing. If a stain remains, place a benzine-soaked cloth beneath it to remove it. Wait for signs that the stain has loosened before rubbing it with the benzine cloth directly. Rub the discoloration away until it disappears. Wash for one cycle in the machine.
If you're looking for a best tactical gear for any survival or outdoor situation, we have here at Evatac. Contact us today!