A rescue knife is an essential tool for any rescue worker. Not only are they used to cut through clothing, but rescue knives can also be used as a weapon against assailants, or to break windows in emergency situations. The blade on the rescue knife is made of stainless steel and it's usually around 8 inches long. This ensures that you have enough length to cut through anything without having your hand dangerously close to the dangerous edge of the blade.
It's important that you keep your rescue knife clean so that it doesn't become dull or rust over time which will make cutting more difficult for yourself and others. It can be a belt cutter, glass breaker, or more like a fox knives
For cleaning, here are some items you can find around the house:
- An old toothbrush or a tiny brush
- Lubricant is a substance that keeps things moving (mineral oil, sewing machine oil, or gun oil)
- Warm water and mild soap
- Towels made of paper
It doesn't matter if your survival knife's handle is made of metal, plastic, or wood. Later in this drill, we'll look at how to take additional care of a wooden handle and cope with rust.
Use toothpicks to deal with lint and gunk
Open the knife and remove any lint or crud lodged in the handle with toothpicks. This may help if the locking mechanism isn't operating correctly in wilderness using survival knife. If you use a wet knife, the wet things will be more challenging to remove like a thumb stud and safety hook.
Rinse it and scrub it down
Now that you are done with the gunk move to a sink and run the knife under warm water, flushing the inside of the handle. With a drop of soap on your brush, thoroughly but carefully scrub the entire blade. Pay close attention to the lock mechanism, making sure you remove any crud, sand, or dirt. This will enable a secure catch when the knife is in its open position. Scrub the entire blade and handle of your best survival pocket knife.
Clean each tool individually, then clean the inside
When cleaning a multi-tool or survival folding knife, start by opening one tool at a time and scrubbing it. Scrub each device individually before closing them. After cleaning each one separately, open them all up and wash and clean them, as well as the inside of the body. Next, clean the interior region with Q-tips, getting in to corners and grooves. After rinsing the knife well, pat it dry with a towel.
Dry the entire tool and let it fully air dry
Do not disassemble your knife to clean the insides because most brands will void the guarantee. However, if your tool breaks down, most firms provide outstanding warranties and repair it if you return it to them. Most of the time, if you send it back, they'll mend it, clean it, and sharpen it professionally. That's a pretty good deal of your best budget survival knife.
Lube it up, but do so sparingly
After the knife has dried completely, oil the pivot, blade, and any other moving parts. You can use a variety of lubricants, the majority of which are petroleum-based products similar to those used in sewing machines or as gun oil. While these are the best, you should use food-safe lubrication if your best survival knife is also an eating tool. Although mineral oil is preferred, vegetable oil can also be used.
Wipe it all down
Apply the lubricant gently to the hinges and moving parts, dabbing it in. Don't use too much because a little goes a long way. Wipe the surface with paper towels to remove any excess oil. To avoid further corrosion, clean out the blade, tools, and handle of your best rescue knife. Even if your tool is stainless steel, it can rust; yet, a tiny bit of rust will be enough. If you have a wooden-handled knife, it's necessary to oil the handle; mineral oil works well, but many artisans prefer linseed oil. Cleaning your knife is simple, but it is required. Caring for your tool adequately assures that it will work effectively and that it will last a long time.
What about rust?
If your blade has rusted, assess how badly it has deteriorated and how much effort you are willing to save it. The formation of rust, also known as iron oxide, begins on the surface of iron or steel. Rust will eventually creep inward and erode the metal, causing pitting and, ultimately, complete blade disintegration. If the rust appears to be a thin layer on the surface, you'll probably get good results. To begin, clean the knife as directed above. Again, make sure to dry the entire instrument properly, as moisture is the source of the problem in the first place.
This should work as long as your blade is not excessively rusty to the point that the metal is pitted, corroded, or broken. It may take several attempts to remove all of the rust; if severe, be patient and wait.
Need a new knife?
Compare all of the models we tested on our Best Pocket Knife. Read How to Choose a Pocket Knife for more information on finding one that meets your needs at our website Evatac.com